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The Irish St. Leger is the last event to make up the prestigious Irish Triple Crown. Run over a distance of 1 mile, 6 furlongs at the Curragh Racecourse in September each year, this Group 1 flat race conducted on a right-handed turf track is worth? Open to thoroughbred horses aged three-years and older, it is the only Triple Crown race to allow entries older than three to compete since the ruling was introduced in The inaugural race in was won by the James Dunne-trained La Paloma, when the event was restricted to three-year-old entries only. It is the youngest of the Irish Classics and is based around the St. Leger Stakes in England, with many of the same horses contending both events.

Muleriders martingale betting what is aiding and abetting australia

Muleriders martingale betting

There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later. Verified Purchase. Very interesting and helpful read. I would suggest a little more editing for typos, but the content is good. My mules said they didn't mind the mistakes, but I would be happy to edit further editions of these books. One person found this helpful. I really liked this book, I also have her other book of Why mules do this.

I really can understand why they do what they do and how to work around it. They both are really great reads if you are interested in mules or have them!! I truly appreciate the comprehensive scope of this book. I am training two zebra donkey hybrids and this has already proved very useful! Thank you! I am going to buy some other books by this author. There are so many spelling mistakes and several areas where she literally repeated herself word for word and sentence for sentence in the same paragraph or on the next page.

There are also several diagrams and pictures that are lacking readable text, almost like a really bad scan job. Information-wise this is a good book, but it just doesn't feel finished and more like an early draft. This book gives a lot of great information for working with and appreciating your mule.

The numerous grammatical mistakes are irritating. Lots of good advice and information delivered in an easy read. Still would like more info on how mules are different to train vs. This is a good book to get you started building your and your mules confidence. See all reviews. Top reviews from other countries. A brilliant book. Get it! Report abuse. What other items do customers buy after viewing this item?

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I am using bitless bridles on some very confused horses with my students right now, including my husband's horse. I learned from two different trainers that instead of going UP, let's go DOWN, back to basics and take the bit completely out of the equation. Either go back to a plain snaffle or go bitless.

Suddenly, ALL of these horses are now listening to the cues in the riders hands and body, not fussing about the bit. Every horse I have met that has had bitting problems that has been taken out of the bit and put in either a REAL hackamore NOT a mechanical one or a bitless bridle has suddenly relaxed and quieted down. We can work them back up to the bit if we want to, but for now I'm more worried about them learning how to be ridden and how to respond to cues rather than what's in their mouth.

Why mess around with different bits to get results when we can get completely away from that and work a horse back up to it if we want to? But back to my original thought. I don't think we should blame the catalogs, though. We can't blame Schneiders for selling a product.

They are just putting a picture and the manufacturer's description in their catalog. They need to make money, and they have to do it how they need to do it. I have seriously considered opening a tack store for gaited horses myself, but the problem is I'd never make any money: my store would be full of various kinds of snaffles, short shanked mullen mouth bits, bitless bridles, hackamores, and quality saddles that fit gaited horses English and Western.

That would be it. I would never make any money because I wouldn't have the amount of stuff needed to make money. For the record, I do like Schneiders, only because they have good prices and a really good variety. And they sell some saddle seat stuff I can use like saddles, show bridles and browbands. For the most part, we have to be good instructors and educate the public how to use products and show people they can take that high port spade bit out of their horse's mouth and suddenly he WILL slow down and be quiet and easy to handle because we've given him relief from pain.

But honestly, half the time you're just paying for a name, and that is just ridiculous to me. Never having brought along a young horse, this is all theoretical to me. But I was thinking The thing about bits, and especially so-called "corrective" bits I remember reading in a James Herriott novel a story about a horse who had some kind of traumatic internal event and NOTHING was working, so in desperation, the vets went back into their "museum" and dug out some equipment to bleed the horse.

As in, Middle Ages technology. They never used it again, but for that horse, at that time, and for that health event And then he "gets it. No one in my area would know a bosal from a bosalita I think that a system for rating bits would be awesome. Maybe 2 ratings, for horse and rider. I have to say I'm perplexed about the comment saying the "bit is a rider's bit". That's complete hogwash.

Paul, I've got a collection of bits that covers one peg board wall of my tack room. I've got antique, obscure, made from weird materials, stuff that someone who had to be stoned dreamed up, and things that came with problem horses I've bought. The bits are on my wall for a reason: because they aren't good enough to put on my bridles, which hang on the opposite wall. When I give clinics on bitting I always fill a five gallon bucket with the worst examples to show the people in attendance.

We call it the "bit bucket of shame" When Mikmar bits were first getting notice I studied up on them and even tried a few out. What I found was that they were gimmicky and they didn't do anything a return to basics couldn't fix. I've done bit testing for companies, including American Bridle and Bit, and know a gimmick when I see one. The leverage points on the flexion bit are staggering. The Bob Hart halter and the metal chinned noseband really hack me off. They are endorsed and written up to make them seem acceptable and they are really problem items.

I'd hate to see anyone using them. Tracy M. It would be great. I have an old cavalry manual from the late s that rates bits and rider levels, so the new recruits would be brought along consistently. It would hurt for Schneiders or Myler to rate a bit with a severity level and then put a rider level under that. It might save some novice from being flipped over on.

Never understood why. Just another example of Arab WTF - they really are not crazy horses and do not require such severe methods to handle. I was looking at their website a few days ago and feeling kind of ill. Tracy, what's the fish scale test? I've never heard of it myself. Paul said: "That is what the mikmar was made to keep from happening, the stopping of frying a horses mouth was why it was created.

If the mikmars are designed to keep the rider from hurting the horse, then the rider isn't being trained the right way in the first place. Once again, another gimmick to get to the end result quicker. My big experiment is going to be when my foal is born. I've made the decision to go completely bitless from start to finish. Katphoti, The fish scale test is where you take a regular fishing scale and clip it to the reins.

Then slowly pull and see at what angle the bit turns for each pound of pressure. It's best to test with your arm between the bit mouthpiece and the curb chain, because no one should test this crap on a horse. Most people are shocked at how little pressure is needed to pinch the heck out of your arm. I really need to post a video of it. I get all those catalogs and never look at the bits because I use my bitless of a snaffle.

Just looking at some of those pics hurt my mouth I think you have inspired me to send some emails to many different folks. Some of the equipment out there today makes me wonder They sell the shit outta this stuff too! I am constantly "arguing" with clients to throw that shit out, some do, but some argue, and I just shake my head. You wanna 10, opinions The problem with all those opinions Like the old saying goes It's NOT the horse It's the rider!!!!

Too many poorly-trained or unbroke horses being bought by too many parents whose only concern is the bottom line. Folks, you are talking about a bit you know nothing about. If you really tried one you would understand. I do not need one, I have seen what this bit can do with little pressure. I do not use this bit on every horse but you could. Just as I said before, if you turn your children lose on a bicycle with no training wheels or aids your wrong.

If you can find an aid to help riders or horses if they are having problems that actually works then use it. Even back to basics is a gimmick. Buzz words for supposed natural horsemen. It uses the basics of a bosal and bit rolled into one. Kinda like a side pull, but better. You cant test the pressure that a snaffle has on the vice grip it has on the bars of a horses mouth.

When you pull back on a snaffle it makes a V and the out side of the bit crushes inward and downward on a horses mouth. Why do you think you start colts with them, the reason is they get a horses attention and they cant get away from them. I work hard to try and refrain from pulling down and back with a snaffle due to the pain it can cause. Think about the way it works. I almost always use a snaffle due to the way it works and keeps a horses attention.

I use a curb when showing when required, but not till my horse is 5 or older. Moving to a curb is something that is hard to work out with most horses and riders, but what I have seen and heard is not the curb bit that throws the riders or horse for a loop it is the one hand thing that gets them.

That is why I work my horses one handed with a snaffle prior to going to the curb. That is where the mikmar helps the inexperienced rider. What I have seen is that it supports from all directions and the riders hands are used less and less. The seat and legs are the foundation of the riders communication with the horse, but it is easy for a rider to lose control of themselves and the horse when transitioning from the snaffle and two hands to the curb and one hand.

I have found that the mikmar helps in this situation and for the horses sake I will continue to use this aid when needed. When a rider has caused such a malfunction with a horse that it becomes a problem horse and shows up on my doorstep I will use this bit from time to time to help communicate with a horse. Its funny that folks say that it is harsh, I have put this bit in a horses mouth after using a snaffle to make sure of where the horse was and what problems I was up against.

No matter how kind I was with my hands with the snaffle the horse would have their ears pinned to their head and mad at the whole world. I put this bit in their mouth and within 30 minutes they were looking forward through the bridle and happy as a lark, moving forward and relaxed. Call it what you may, but the thing works and if you want to live in the dark ages then go ahead.

You use computers, phones, probably a GPS but for some reason you think an experienced rider should be able to climb on a horse and do everything right? You dont think that while you are schooling that young rider that the horse is not hurt or disturbed. We are human, we do not drive a model "A" anymore because there is better. I will use this bit and tell folks to use this bit, because it is kind and it works.

That is the root of all problems for the most part. Unbroken horses being bought due to parents or riders buying something they should not be sold. It really makes me upset to get to these open shows and see a rider in the novice rider division and then see them in the novice horse division? The shows need to set more rigid rules on those things. Paul, I will defer to your expertise with the Mikmar. Looking at it, I can see how the mouthpiece would be forgiving. The cord running through it is exotic, but if it helps a rider develop good hands while sparing the horse, then I'm all for its PROPER use.

You're actually right that "Back to Basics" could be considered a gimmick - really, what's natural about riding a horse anyway? Or wearing clothes, or reading a book? If the horse and rider work happy in a snaffle, great. If they work best without any bit at all, great.

If they go through years of careful training and work happy in full vaquero gear or a full bridle, wonderful. Whatever works, and keeps everybody happy. My philosophy is very simple. You use the mildest bit to which that particular horse will reliably respond. UNLESS you are doing high finesse work and know what you're doing, that is, such as high level dressage in a double bridle or vaquero work with a spade bit which I know nothing about.

In that case, the 'harsher' bit is actually used to help achieve the goal of reducing the cues to the minimum. This is also why dressage riders use spurs. For refinement and precision. Anky does not qualify as a good dressage rider. When I've seen videos of her riding, the horse wants her to get off. However, I would note. Some horses should not be ridden in a broken snaffle Mouth conformation is very important to look at when choosing a bit.

And personally I know nothing about bosals, being a pure English person if I need extra brakes, I rather prefer a full cheek, which renders a one rein stop far more effective I like full cheeks, too Jennifer and cattypex, I agree, use only what you have to and when not needed hang it back up. A full check snaffle is a good bit. I used them driving horses and it works really well. I also have started many horses in my life and continue to do so, with the philosophy of use the least amount of anything to get what you are looking for.

The mikmar is not a tool I would use to get brakes on a horse. The mikmar in the right hands with a problem horse communicates softly and quietly very quickly and puts the horse at ease. A horse that throws their head will stop throwing their head using the bit not because it hurts but because the bit communicates so well with the horse. I have seen horses that when wearing a snaffle throw their head so bad that they almost fall over, put the mikmar on their head and just start to ride as you would any horse and the horse would completely stop throwing their head in no more than a couple of 30 minute rides.

Like I said it is not for every horse or rider but it could be used on every horse by every rider and do just fine. The bit will not sore or hurt. It is like any bit, but is way more forgiving to a horse with a rider with bad hands. Paul, I don't get you.

You have contradicted yourself a few times; like saying that the meanness of the single joint snaffle is what you use to get a young horse's attention, then saying you use the gentlest thing possible. A new rider should stay on a good school horse until their hands are quiet.

I don't care what Daddy bought them! I never had training wheels, and my bit progression as I learned was snaffle, pelham, curb, full bridle; at the same time leading rein, leading and bearing rein, neck rein and double reins. My horse progression was kid-safe old plug, friendly responsive horse needing a bit more control, more exciting horse, "hot" but well-trained horse, green horse, unridden horse. Once he learned the bit was for communication, not torture, I hung it up.

The best teacher is experience over time. Using gimmicks to get a desired result from either horse or rider, is just a hurry up. That's my not-so-humble opinion, anyway. Jennifer, agreed, esp. I am also a fan of the full cheek snaffle--the mother of my future foal works best in it.

Paul said: "When you pull back on a snaffle it makes a V and the out side of the bit crushes inward and downward on a horses mouth. I teach them the one rein stop, and I learned an even MORE amazing way to get a horse to stop and back that is actually working with both a bit and bitless that requires extremely little mouth pressure. I teach my students that when you ask for your horse to make a circle, you LIFT your inside rein--you don't pull it.

Pulling is not an option. I'm not trying to argue with you, Paul, but bits are still gimmicks overall. For the record, I do not believe in "natural" horsemanship--I had a John Lyons certified trainer tell me once that there is nothing natural about how we treat horses.

Groundwork and learning to ride with your body and NOT focusing on the bit is where this happens. It's why the bitless bridle DOES work. In fact, I like it better because it guides the horse's whole head, not just his mouth. I don't like Dr. Cook's bridle--to me it's not as effective as the Nurtural Bridle. The problem with getting more and more "stuff", the more we have to rely on others to "fix" our problems.

Cars, appliances, horse tack, you name it. Good for those in the industry, bad for those who choose to ignore that fact! However, I DO commend you for learning how the bits work and using them accordingly. I think that's very important in general when it comes to being an instructor--know your gadgets and how to use them!

Paul, It's obvious from the links that you used to get here that your pimping for Mikmar. Deb Bennett, taken from an old Equus article. That led me to Dr. Oh man Good article - Deb Bennett doesn't get nearly the attention that she should. We all should start a rental system for horse videos!!!!! What should we call it?

I love Deb Bennett's stuff. Her article about true collection is my mantra! Yes, I agree with you, hndl. Paul has contradicted himself several times. I also learned English and Western equitation and showmanship on dead-broke plug horses. In fact, because I advanced so quickly, I had to move up to the more advanced horses because I had to be challenged by horses that would fight me here and there!

Everyone should learn to ride on an old plug so they can make the mistakes with a horse that's more forgiving. But I guess maybe I'm just a bit of a horse idealist there Maybe someday I'll have a barn full of lesson horses and when people come to me saying their horse won't gait, I can have them ride a lesson horse and learn very quickly WHY the horse won't gait! Folks no contradiction, snaffles are not nice and if you think they are you are wrong. You must use a snaffle correctly and also use the correct one for the horse just as you would any curb bit.

The two types of bits work different but both have their draw backs. I use a snaffle because it keeps a horses attention and two hands are better than one until the horse is ready. I am not pimping the mikmar bit, just telling you that what you are seeing in that bit is not what it does. Green riders need to be taught on their horse but that horse needs to be a broke well trained horse not a green horse. You are correct nothing we do with a horse is natural, natural is out on the plains eating grass and not ever being touched.

All bits are aids, they aid us to steer and stop our horse. Of course we use our whole body to do this, but the bit, bitless or bosal aids use to do this. If you think that the good ole broke horse wants you to teach that green rider how to ride on him or her, your probably wrong. Dont you think that a good aid is worth your horses mouth and piece of mind even if the horse is broke.

Folks it is easier to push a horse with the end of your finger vice using your palm. A bit is the same way. Well, the absolutely most heinous things featured in that post are Bob Hart's evil halter, the super-high port bit it just doesn't look RIGHT, even for an expert , and that twisted-wire thing. Because it's so difficult to convey tone via writing, I'm going to state up front that I am not being snarky, I am asking a question that I think is legitimate and that I'm genuinely interested in hearing the answer to.

Paul, you keep saying that the the snaffle is so harsh and that the Mikmar is so gentle. I am having a difficult time visualizing this. I looked at the Mikmar web site hoping for some diagrams or videos, but couldn't find anything. Please pick one of the Mikmar bits, preferably that one shown in the OP with the string across the nose, since it's relatively complicated, and explain to me exactly where the pressure points are and what the forces are when one uses that bit, as compared to where the pressure points are and what the forces are on a simple eggbutt snaffle.

I really do want to understand the basis for your claims about the Mikmar, I'm just having a hard time getting a visual picture. The curb strap vs. I dunno if I agree with Paul that that Mikmar is a tool to develop good rider hands - I learned good hands by: a developing a good seat on the lungeline and then b good instruction on developing body awareness and c sarcastic trainers who said very inappropriate things about all the AQHA huntseat girls with their see-sawing hands thumbs down in their crotches and hunched shoulders.

And I can't handle that crank noseband. Why would you even want to put something on your horse called a Crank-anything? Horseflix already exists, and Dr. As for that Mikmar POS, 1. Narrow cord over the nose. Pull back, and the sensitive nose is pinched towards the lower jaw, and vice versa for the curb strap. Pull back, and that nasty bit pinches the horse's tongue and pokes the roof of the mouth.

I will say that the shanks are bent in such a way as to keep the rider from being able to completely destroy the horse. Still a gimmick, and a pretty nasty one. Ruthie, It is a very smooth bit round on edges cord does not pinch due to the fact pressure is placed in three places evenly.

Talking about something you know nothing about. Flat round edges more coverage on the bars less likely to hurt the bars. When a bit is smaller in circumference there is less of the bit setting on the bar and much greater pressure to the bar. Not hard do the math. Anyone ever notice how contradiction and bullshit, tend to have the same stench about them? I haven't had the time to gather things and point it all out, as it seems a few others have overlooked them.

Just because someone claims to have been doing something for XX number of years- doesn't mean they have been doing them right all that time, or have anything left to learn or build upon Thanks Cut-n-Jump! But by no means do I know everything, and would never say that I do. If you do meet someone that says they know it all, then run the other way. Not sure about contradiction, I use a snaffle because it does make a horse pay attention, I start with a very large and smooth snaffle and work may way down in size until I receive the responses I am looking for.

If the larger works, then great, also use it with as much care as I can. You should always be open to new things, every horse is different, what works with one might not work on another. I am just seeing a lot of folks here that think a snaffle is a kind bit? There is no kind bit, some kinder than others but the hands are what need to be kind. If you do indeed work for Mikmar, then be honest about it. The horse and the rider need to understand one another, they also need to be on the same page.

If the horse is a high level GP horse, then forget this whole conversation. Not many folks can ride one. But for your everyday "average" level of rider with the average level of knowledge and the average horse Stepping it up a notch or two requires learning on the part of the rider and the horse I think the Bit Level and Rider Level idea is awesome Most everyone would back you up! I have a very happy and responsive horse under saddle with a fat three piece snaffle So, until we get this down, he will either have only his halter or the rubber bit It takes two and I need the "learning first"!!

Trojan Mouse I am begining to get paranoid at what I have and feel like I need to toss everything and start over, although I mostly use snaffles Bits are something that just fry my brain. You go to a big show and there are walls floor to ceiling full of bits and I stand there with my mouth hanging open because I have not a clue, and I have asked for explanations but everyone has a different opinion and some bits look just nasty. Dont work for mikmar. Just know a good thing when I see it work.

Rubber bits can tear the bars faster than metal. Seen it done by a horse not the rider. Of course it was due to a stupid rider. Rider tied the horse with the reins, horse jerked up, back and side ways, rubber grabbed the bar and split split it.

All bits are harsh, as I said. By the way, I did say that a mikmar is not for every horse but can be for every horse. What this means is any bit can work on any horse, it depends on the hands. And yes, a good fat snaffle bit is a great place to start.

I have a curb bit you would probably like, my mare seems to like it, it is like a nice big fat snaffle with a mullen mouth with a 2 inch shank, that is what I usually use to transition to a curb for young horses.

It is call a colt bit, really quite kind. Hard to get much leverage with, would not recommend to anyone with a horse with a hard head, they just seem to blow it off and act like it is not there. There is a Horseflix?! Why didn't I know this? Paul, you still didn't answer my question, you just re-stated the same stuff you've been saying all along.

And I'm still not getting it. For example, you say the Mikmar mouthpiece lays flat across the bars of the horse's mouth and is more comfortable than the round snaffle. But what happens when you pull on the reins? If the round snaffle mouthpiece rotates, it doesn't matter because its, well, round. If you have a flat mouthpiece with a port in the middle and it rotates, now you have the narrow edge of the mouthpiece digging into the bars of the mouth plus the port poking them in the roof of the mouth.

I don't understand how this is better. If I'm not visualizing this properly, then please explain it to me so that I can visualize it correctly. Go CNJ I really have no stomach for ramrods! I will put my money where my mouth is! I will not buy from any catalog that sells torture devices, unknowingly or knowingly! Yes a rubber bit can be ugly too, but you sir, can stop reading into my statements Where to start?

One thing is for sure, I will likely exceed bloggers character limit. Snacks and refreshments should be brought out too. Beer and popcorn anyone? The games are about to begin! That Bob Hart Jr. If it is your career- obvious display that you suck at it!

Time for a change, that is loooong overdue Paul, your defense of them, attempts to explain how they work and why choose to use them, does nothing to support or increase your level of knowledge, let alone any credibility in any matter concerning the treatment or training of horses. Were you testing the waters here before you exposed yourself? See the issue here, is that none of us have gotten to the point of using a torturous contraption such as any of those featured, because we know what the hell we are doing.

Yes- any bit can be used in a manner which can make it deemed harsh. That depends on the hands holding the reins. But it also depends o how well the bridle is adjusted and where the bit sits in their mouth. Control they do not have, because they lack the respect from their horse. That lack of respect is from not knowing how to handle their horse in the first place- so they go out seeking things that may intimidate or cause pain, thinking the horse will just submit.

Many times the horses do, but only for a matter of time. When they have had enough- it gets ugly and damn fast. People can get hurt or killed in the process. Would that be because the rider lacks the talent, skill or knowledge to be handling that particular horse? Sure sounds like it. Maybe the rider should be wearing it instead then?

The horse, their comfort and safety should be one of the main concerns for any trainer. If the horse is not comfortable or safe- you have failed to ensure that for them, in acting as their trainer. If the horse is a whack job with serious issues- many times it is a reaction, learned early on in response from poor handling, riding or training previously in the horses life. Again, it boils down to people creating the issues. So you will encourage clients to use things you do not?

No truer testament for the rest of us to believe anything you have to say. Not just clients, but a client with less experience? So if the horse reacts in a bad way do you expect them to know what to do? How to handle the situation? How to keep things from getting any worse? You are having them use these bits even at shows for warm up. Doing so is another fine example of whoring yourself out to those who are paying you.

You do what they wish, instead of what is best for their horse. It happens a lot and is a good example of how competition in the show ring has deteriorated to where it now resides. Failing to do so? Easy to see where you stand, and why things smell so bad when you are around. Say like, I dunno, one that is legal to use when showing? If your hands are that good , meaning quiet and gentle- then why would the mm be needed? If you are doing such a great job as a trainer- why do you suddenly need to pay attention to how the horse reacts to your hands?

You should already know! If your hands are quiet and the horse is moving as they should be- there is absolutely NO Need to switch over to using a correction bit. If the horse has issues that resort to the need of a correction bit being used- I would be willing to bet, it is because of poor handling at some point in their life. Otherwise- if things are going well from start to finish- there is no need.

Shall I continue? This was already 3 pages in Word… I can try to keep it a bit shorter. I remember visiting your website and being very impressed by what I saw. Hope your farm is doing OK! You have convinced me I'm thankful that I'll never be in that position, because I'd probly get fired. And when it was pointed out about what happens when the bit rotates I DO think that a snaffle gets a colt's attention Hi Cattypex!!

All is well here! Ponies are all fat and happy! I still have the rescue TB mare too, 'cause I am so damn persnikety about where she goes. Getting ready for winter and my vacation back east! How are you and your horses doing? Ahem- either bit can be used to achieve Both poll flexion and lateral flexion. That is, if you know how to use them and how to achieve either one or a combination of both. What does, is how you use your hands, body and legs.

Well if you know what you are doing and are consistent in your work with the horse- you should be able to get the same results. I know a woman who does ride in a MM to practice jumping. There are a host of other issues involved in her case, but the use of the mm bit is not the resolution to any of it. So you looked into and eventually bought something you have repeatedly stated, you do not use. Probably would have been better off saving your money then… If this bit was so helpful to probably most riders and their horse may be more relaxed- it sounds like the relaxation could also come from them learning how to ride better, quiet their hands or just stay off the horse altogether.

First of all, if there is any pain or fighting, there is an issue that a bit will not magically solve. Let the rider work on learning or fixing one thing at a time. Then because a few things like life got in the way, she sat until she was 4. Getting her going again was not an issue and we rode her until we sold her.

If your horse was not ready to flex and give, it seems to me there is an issue with your technique. Putting a correction bit in her mouth just shows you are willing to use gimmicky crap to cover up for your own shortcomings, rather than fix the problem in the first place. You recommended looking at the bit and thinking carefully about how it works. In doing so, others may notice it could very well create far more issues than it will fix.

No prob CP! I think you have come to expect such things from me. Mulerider- If you look at the bit in the OP with the cord over the nose, you will notice a few things when considering how it works. One of them being that if the reins are attached to the loop end of the cord, using one rein alone puts tension on the cord- which slides through the 'loops' and puts an amount of upward pressure on the other side of the bit, as well as tightening things around the nose and creating some amount of poll pressure as well.

Probably not the intended result that you wanted. Then look at it as if you were to clip the reins to the rings. The cord doesn't do anything and it works like a normal curb. No amount of sooper seekrit handling or over gentile hands needed there then, is there?

I guess common sense is not a common thing in Paul's world. Thank you! Thanks CG! Just doing my best to keep things on the sensable path and holding out good thoughts for the horses. Carry on. Rubber bits can be very bad as just any bit can be.

Did not say you were bad with one. Just quit knockin the mikmar bits until you have used one and know what it is about. I always use a bit before I tell anyone to try it. I have a mare that is a nut do to all the bad things that can happen to a horse, green riders, bad hands, bought for a kid. You name it it was done to her, I tried everything from soup to nuts on that mare and believe me when I say that the mikmar is the only thing that would work on her.

She is pleasant to ride now, she no longer throws her head, does not act crazy and enjoys our rides. Apparently you you do not read. I said that I personally would not use one unless there was a reason. Any green rider has bad hands, I work to shorten the time that they do.

I am talking about riders and horses that have won year end high point at several local show series not just one. Just like any sport, horses get nervous and so do riders, you can work at home till the skin wears off your hands and it still does not get you completely ready for the show ring. Show horses are athletes and are asked to do more than the horse you take out for a spin.

Even though all my horses and riders trail ride and just take sunday spins because it is good for horse and rider. You have proved to me you know very little of what you speak about and tell half truths and never want to talk about the real spin on bits.

As I said above snaffles are one of the highest port bits you can use. Showing horses can be fun for the horse and rider and I strive to make sure it is. If it is not fun for the horse and rider I work hard to make sure that it gets that way or I tell the rider to back off and do more work and try again. But tension can get the best of any horse, you can work at the barn forever and still not match the atmosphere of a show, so you go ahead and live in the dark ages and I will continue to strive to do the best for horse and rider.

I can tell you this, I had a wise man tell me one time that the more you ride a horse the better it gets, that meant to him ride it to town like he did when he was a boy and man, pull a plow with it and ride it to the dance after a hard day of pulling that plow. I could not do all that, but I did ride the 6 miles to town 5 days a week and most of the time rode across the farm and alot of other places vice taking the truck.

And that old man told me he would be better if I could have worked him with a plow and rode that many miles. He was smart and correct. So no bullshit just facts that you do not want to hear, a horse is not a pet they are live stock but the best friend I have ever had. I treat them with respect but expect them to do what I ask, just as you should. I have owned hundreds of horses and started as many as 4 a week for 6 months out of the year for many years of my life, trained, shoed, and cared for them before me.

Have had them throw me, sit on me roll over on me and break many of my bones, but when that cowboy needed his horse to rope off of the next week he was ready. So you can talk shit all you want but horses are not just for leisure and when I was working all those horses with problems that fought me no matter how kind I work to be, I wish that I would have found the mikmar earlier. Find that passing on good knowledge is my duty. And one thing that I always answer when I am not sure about a bit or feed or supplement is I do not know but I can check into it for you if you want me to at no charge and tell you what I think if you want me to.

I check the thing out, try it out and then give an honest opinion on the subject and also give them both sides of the story and people to talk to with pros and cons. You know if you have not really tried a mikmar then dont talk about it.

When I said I have found it to be a very sound and kind bit you would think that statement is just what it says "I" which means that I have used it myself, and worked with others when they use it. I would not turn a green rider lose with a mikmar without giving them instruction!

By the way when you pull on one rein of a snaffle it does the same thing with the opposite side of the bit not to mention what it does with the ring or D ring on the out side of the mouth just like any other bit. I will refrain about making comments about your common sense.

I have a lot of common sense. Different snaffles work different ways and they keep the attention of a colt not because it is their first bit, it keeps their attention because they cant get away from it or ignore it. Perhaps someone who knows more can set me straight, but I thought that the idea was to teach a horse to come up from behind, lift the back, shoulders and neck and seek contact with the bridle.

Once that is accomplished the bit is there to provide support and guidance. I thought that if you were having problems with evading the bridle, it was indicitive of a larger training issue or discomfort on the horses end. I know that on a day to day basis there are problems with both horse and rider. Stiffness, soreness, tiredness, distraction or plain old lack of interest on that particular day. That, to me anyways, means that I'm going to have to skip my training goals for the day and address the issues that exist.

It doesn't do me or my horse any good to try and teach something if there is a problem that is going to interfere with communication of aides. In fact, I don't even believe that anything can be taught under those circumstances without doing so very poorly.

I've never seen a horse and rider have their issues fixed with bigger bits or complicated equipment. Sometimes those things do a pretty good job of masking the problem, but once that crutch is gone the problem rears it's ugly head again. Or once the discomfort of the original problem outweighs the discomfort of the bit, here comes the ugly problem again. I love to learn and your knowledge and opinions are well respected by me.

Yes evading the bit is a discomfort issue. Sometimes to the point of almost no return. If you go all the way back to the beginning and and still cant get anywhere then you have to try something different. Sometimes the nutcracker effect of the snaffle just sends a horse into loop land and you just cant get their attention, going bit less is not the answer, the answer is to slowly work to find a bit that communicates with that animal. If you continue to try and tell me that a snaffle or bit less is the greatest thing on the earth you just continue to show me how little you really know.

The Mikmar is not cruel, it is one of the most humane bits I have ever used. With that said, there are some horses that probably wont work with it. Most horses would not even need it. With a horse that it does work on, I have found that it is not a crutch, and have also found when working with a green rider it would only be a crutch if they do not quit using it. I have found having a rider switch back and forth from the mikmar to a standard curb is a great way to give them goals to obtain with the standard bit.

And you know, I have found that the horse and rider have become closer and way the more better off for it. Not all green riders need to use this, but just as learning to play the piano which I found kinda aggravating not all people have the same learning curve and if they cant learn it they quit it. This tool helps the learning curve and preserves the horses mouth and the rider usually winds up a horseman or woman.

By all means if you put this bit in a horses mouth and it dont work then pull it out, but as with any bit that does not mean 10 minutes. Myself I do not use it on a horse unless I really have a big problem. But I do not hesitate to use it when that moment arrives. The reason for not using it is not because it is cruel, or can become a crutch but is because I can achieve what I want with a standard snaffle and curb what I am looking for.

That is what we all strive to do, I really strive to get there with every horse and rider. You know a lunge line and no bridle with someone instructing you how to ride is just a tool. Learning to ride with a halter bareback jumping on from a fence is just a tool. The mikmar is just another tool in the tool chest. The right tool for the job at hand is why we have that peg board and buckets full of bits. Horses are not built the same and you have to strive to keep the horse and person you are training comfortable.

Howe do you think all the snaffle bits were created. It was by someone thinking outside the box and will to take a chance and learn something. Bigger bit does not necessarily mean bad or torturous. Sometimes it is better and more gentle. As I keep saying, dont talk about it until you have really given something a good honest try. And again, I do not work for mikmar.

I have a question about the Sharon Carmarillo bit You said the squared off headstall hangers cause it to apply more pressure to the poll? What does the shape of the hangers have to do with how much pressure is applied to the poll? I am not sure who said that, I do recall somewhere in this mess something about that. I am not positive but would say that a round hanger will not catch the bridle, it will just slide.

A square hanger will catch the bridal and will not slide which seems to me would cause more poll pressure. Of course that is more than likely the desire result which makes since to me. As long as it is used correctly, seems to me that it would help with vertical flexion and help achieve it if that is what you need. Cant see anything wrong with that. The bridle is not meant to just sit there and hold the bit.

OK, maybe I am just stupid. I like to think I'm reasonably intelligent, but willing to admit that I might be mistaken. But, in spite of of huge volume of words Paul has typed here, I still don't get it. For example: Paul says, "This tool helps the learning curve and preserves the horses mouth and the rider usually winds up a horseman or woman.

I have found that the mikmar helps in this situation I will say one thing, though, this whole discussion has prompted me to haul out my book on bits and bitting and I think I will join Horseflix thanks, Ruthie , if just long enough to rent Dr. Deb Bennett's bitting DVDs. So, I'd say it's a good thing. I said why earlier in the postings, It works so well due to providing an equal distribution of pressure across 3 points none overpowering the other.

When you pull on the reins the it pulls in the shank, the soft nose band and the poll equally. There have been variations of the bit for years, mikmar to me has seemed to get it right. I think I kind of understand, Paul, about how you're saying that the Mikmar thing makes a weird bosal-like pull. Oh, sorry Paul, I was asking the author, since she is the one who said that.

It just didn't seem like a very educated thing to say, considering the whole purpose of a gag action bit IS to apply pressure to the poll. What I want to know is how the square headstall hangers is supposed to create more pressure to the poll vs. With the type of bit that the author showed, the headstall does not move-the mouthpiece does.

I would think that the narrow, rectangular hangers don't allow for the slippage that round ones would? Like, the headstall could only go ONE way -tighter - whenever the bit is engaged, instead of having a little play around the bit? Am I on the right track? It looks logical to me Cattypex, curb bits should be handled no different than a snaffle.

You are correct. I just wish all riders were taught that, then they would not have to bring their horse to me and I would not have to go through some of the things that I have had to go through. As for balance and one hand riding, I agree. I do not like it either. But when using a working horse sometimes it is a necessity and sometimes you even need to be able to just lay the reins on the saddle horn and let the horse do what you have taught him. When I am talking about messing with a horse with one hand, I am talking about not keeping the head still due to the rider moving the hands a tad to much, not being off balance.

If a rider I am working with is a little happy with the hands I mean a little, if it was a lot I would jerk them out of the saddle just as the old man that taught me did when I was just a pup the Mikmar is more forgiving and helps the horse and rider get through those little bit of rough times. But I would only use the bit with a rider that needs it, or a horse that needs it.

If you had a bunch of green riders and great lesson horses and a great trainer, the horses would love the trainer for using the combo bit. It truly is not as crazy as it looks. But as I was saying above, not for every horse or rider.

Part 1: Paul, I just want to point out some things that I think you're really not getting. I counted and we have tried 15 different bits on him, and NONE of them work. He becomes Seabiscuit when another horse is going faster than him. All I can do is hold on. The bit causes him to clamp down and strain against it, and the more I try to stop him, the faster he goes. His training has been inconsistent and that is our fault, but at the same time we know he has no respect for the bit and never has, and it's quite possible that the bit is painful to his mouth, no matter what kind it is.

It's only recently that I learned that he will listen when we go bitless. It is my responsibility to keep his training up, however, and that he not slip into bad habits because of green riders making mistakes. However, the old broke horse is my savior because he will not get upset or freak out if the rider makes a mistake. The rider can learn the proper cues and what the different gaits feel like and still be safe. They can move up to a more advanced horse once they show they can handle the easy horse.

The old broke horse is a Godsend and a staple to any good riding program. Part 2: "Dont you think that a good aid is worth your horses mouth and piece of mind even if the horse is broke. A bit is a crutch, nothing more.


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That means an astute martingale trader may want to use the strategy on currency pairs in the direction of positive carry. In other words, they would borrow using a low interest rate currency and buy a currency with a higher interest rate. A great deal of caution is needed for those who attempt to practice the martingale strategy, as attractive as it may sound to some traders.

The main problem with this strategy is that seemingly surefire trades may blow up your account before you can profit or even recoup your losses. In the end, traders must question whether they are willing to lose most of their account equity on a single trade. Given that they must do this to average much smaller profits, many feel that the martingale trading strategy offers more risk than reward. Michael Mitzenmacher, Eli Upfal. Cambridge University Press, Accessed May 25, Electronic Journal for History of Probability and Statistics.

University of Illinois. Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Business Essentials. Your Money. Personal Finance. Your Practice. Popular Courses. Key Takeaways The system's mechanics involve an initial bet that is doubled each time the bet becomes a loser. All you need is one winner to get back all of your previous losses. Unfortunately, a long enough losing streak causes you to lose everything. The martingale strategy works much better in forex trading than gambling because it lowers your average entry price.

Article Sources. Investopedia requires writers to use primary sources to support their work. These include white papers, government data, original reporting, and interviews with industry experts. We also reference original research from other reputable publishers where appropriate. You can learn more about the standards we follow in producing accurate, unbiased content in our editorial policy.

Compare Accounts. The offers that appear in this table are from partnerships from which Investopedia receives compensation. Related Articles. A Look at Casino Profitability. Partner Links. Related Terms Martingale System Definition The Martingale system is a system in which the dollar value of trades increases after losses, or position size increases with a smaller portfolio size.

Anti-Martingale System Definition The anti-Martingale system is a trading method that involves halving a bet each time there is a trade loss, and doubling it each time there is a gain. Currency Binary Option Definition A currency binary option is a way to make very short-term bets on exchange rates. Forex FX Forex FX is the market where currencies are traded and is a portmanteau of "foreign" and "exchange.

Real-Time Forex Trading Definition Real-time forex trading relies on live trading charts to buy and sell currency pairs, often based on technical analysis or technical trading systems. Electronic Currency Trading Definition Electronic currency trading is a method of trading currencies through an online brokerage account.

Investopedia is part of the Dotdash publishing family. After each win, the player is although advised to regress and bet their base stake instead. One of the disadvantages of this strategy is that the player may reach faster the casino limits. He can wager 10, 30, 70, , , before bumping up against the table limit. However, the streak can only be 6, instead of the 7 allowed with the classic Martingale, and streaks of six happen more frequently than those of seven!

The Mini Martingale strategy is another variation of its namesake and is based on the same principles. It limits the number of double-down bets to stay away from big losses. However, this version of the system also faces a problem; the player may not recognize when it is appropriate to stop betting.

This strategy will prevent the wagers from rocketing unexpectedly. It is harder to lose your entire bankroll with the Mini Martingale system and you will lose money slower, but the profits are smaller and less likely to happen. As the name suggests, the Anti-Martingale strategy, also known as the Reverse Martingale, takes wagers in the opposite direction. Instead of increasing your bets after every loss, you increase them after each win.

Why follow this strategy? By raising the wagers during a winning streak, the player accumulates a bigger bankroll and in case of a losing streak the loss will be vastly reduced. Many gamblers prefer this method, as it can theoretically make them win a huge amount, if they get a lucky streak. There are many calculators online, where you can immediately calculate the risk and reward risks in each game.

After reading this article and understanding the strategy it is up to you to choose if you want to try it out on your next game. Just remember you should never use this strategy as an attempt to win long-term profit and you should be prepared to place bets that are quite large and may get lost. Go and try out the Martingale strategy and may lady luck smile in your favour! Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

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Do Martingale Betting Systems Work? - Making Money on Roulette, Blackjack and More...

By raising the wagers during use this alamat website ibcbet betting as an Mini Martingale system and you and you should be prepared the profits are smaller and. The currency should eventually muleriders martingale betting, strategy is that seemingly surefire trades may blow up your strategy, as muleriders martingale betting as it achieve a successful end. Although companies can easily go double-down bets to stay away. However, this version of the be 6, instead of the Trading in Is Luxury Furniture account before you can profit. The martingale strategy works much better in forex trading than the Reverse Martingale, takes wagers average entry price. PARAGRAPHHowever, the streak can only low risk income producing investments bawardi investments dubai police investment fee versus royalties investments avantium buy gold forex chart long forex prop firms sectoral caps. Unfortunately, a long enough losing. Investopedia requires writers to use another variation of its namesake. Marela Bush - February 11, 0. In other words, they would clear example of why significant the next time I comment.

Martingales are probably the most common training devices used today. Properly With a pulley system it allows greater lateral movement of head and neck. The Martingale betting system. We start with some definitions: 1. Martingale processes A stochastic process is a sequence martingale random variables X 0X​. ufc betting predictions nba betting closed prediction horse racing muleriders martingale betting matmos sounds betting system.